Right next door was the highlight of the day, the Chiesa Della Martorana. It has a fine bell tower with detail picked out in tiles, and you get the sense even before you go in that it is something special. Founded at the time of Norman rule it is as ornate as the nearby San Cataldo is restrained. Martorana has some truly splendid mosaics created by Byzantine craftsmen. The space is complex and there are many different zones each of which the artists have filled in unique and different ways. There is a mosaic portrait of Roger II receiving his crown directly from Jesus, with whom he bears a strong family resemblance. There are wonderful angles with mighty wings and tiny feet. There is a charming annunciation, with the hand of God the father appearing just below the radiance of the central upper window. The nave has a beautiful nativity scene, which we really liked. As with all mosaics, it seems impossible to get a photo that is even close to what they really look like.
We wanted to visit the church of San Francesco de Assiza, but it was closed, but we did pass a restaurant that seemed to have a good vibe - Anne's antennae for this has become finely attuned over the trip - and made a mental note of the location. We headed onto Chiesa Della Magione, another stark interior Norman church, fragrant with many while lilies and roses, perhaps in preparation for a wedding. At the back of the church was a remarkable 20th Century Pieta, that Anne particularly liked. Unfortunately the church closed for lunch ]soon after we got there so we thought we'd have lunch as well, and retraced our steps to the place we'd noted earlier.
Turned out to be one of the all time great lunches - 'street food' of arancini and caponata and potatoes with melted Sicilian cheese, with dolci of little ricotta filled tarts in short pastry and a sort of almond icecream, plus a lovely wine, in a lovely restoration of what looked like a medieval warehouse. The ambience and service were great and so was the food. I'm afraid Sicily is turning me into a foodie. Interesting that there were a number of youngish Sicilian men in the restaurant sitting at tables by themselves, earnestly enjoying the food. Eating is a serious business in Sicily. We assured the proprietor that we would be back for dinner, which he accepted as the compliment that it was.
Palermo is not a great pedestrian city. The streets are tiny, footpaths narrow or non existent, and the concept of cleaning up after your dog has yet to catch on here, so walking is not relaxing. We were glad to get back to our air con comfort for a siesta. A low key afternoon, some shopping and a wander, then back for dinner to celebrate our wedding anniversary.
Tomorrow we want to get out the door early to beat the tour groups at Cappella Palatina, and then get a bus to visit Monreale.
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