The tourist map of Istanbul only gives the names of some of the streets, and the streets with street signs seem to be not named on the map, and vice versa. Well, that's my excuse anyway. After passing the same place twice, we decided to stop for lunch, restore our blood sugars and get our bearings. The kindly proprietor saw us poring over map and guidebook, asked where we wanted to go, and told us to go out and to the right, which turned out to be 180 degrees off course, but he meant well. Eventually we found the Mosque, after an interesting if accidental tour through the Spice Market, but it was getting close to prayer time when it would be closed to tourists.
Our other activity for the day was a ferry cruise on the Bosphorus and we wanted to get tickets, so we decided to return to the Mosque on our way home. We memorised the location and headed off to the ferry dock.
Tickets in hand, we had had a very expensive cup of Turkish tea in one of the places under the Galatea Bridge and watched the water traffic. The ferry ride up the Bosporus was a very pleasant way to spend a few hours, good for observing both the wonderful range of buildings that line the waters, but also the fellow travellers and the people at the dock where the ferry stopped going up and coming back. There are some really appealing looking houses, three story wooden structures with verandas and towers along the shoreline - I could imagine living a very pleasant life in a few of them.
When we got back to Eminonu, the sky was darkening and thunder rumbling. We did a much better job this time finding the Mosque, but timed our arrival for afternoon prayer time. While we were waiting in the sheltered courtyard, there were some mighty claps of thunder and flashes of lightening, and the heavens opened.
The Mosque is a small jewel. Most of the interior is lined with splendid Iznak tiles in many and varied patterns. The colours and patterns are as impressive and memorable as the best in Topkapi Palace. The light was poor because of the storm, but this pic gives some idea.
After visiting, we sat and waited till the rain eased off, watching the water cascade down onto the marble paving of the courtyard, a peaceful spot to spend some contemplative time. When we did make a move, it felt as if half of Istanbul had had the same idea. The Spice Market was closing up for the day and there were crowds streaming in all directions. But we got on a tram OK, and off at our closest stop, and managed to get down the hill just to our local restaurant as the rain started pelting down again. So we settled in, resolving to keep eating and drinking till it eased off.
The restaurant is mostly outdoor seating under a grape vine, but they had a sort of waterproof covering that stretched over a frame over the top of the vine. It was like camping but with someone else doing the cooking and the washing up - what's not to like? We sat and ate and watched the downpour turn the road into a stream, and bedraggled people splashing past. By the time we finished dinner the skies were clearing, so we scurried home just before it started raining again.
The air feels lovely after the storm, and we are feeling tired but very happy.
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