Catania, Sicily, Friday 6 June, Day 44

This morning we headed off down to the station bright and early to catch the train to Sicily. We had read some rather grim accounts of the trip so we stocked up on supplies. The train w's open plan, not one of the six in a little compartment with a sliding door to a corridor types, which was a relief.

The first part of the journey was great, interesting scenery, lots of little coves and ruins of castles and rocky crags and sleepy sea side villages - all very scenic and picturesque, and we ate our apples and paninis and felt quite smug.  Until the train arrived at the point where it gets loaded onto the ferry, Villa San Giovanni.

We creaked to a stop out in the hot afternoon sin, whatever aircon there had been while the train was moving stopped, temperature in the carriage started to climb. There was no announcement, and to add to the atmosphere, the conductor had thoughtfully locked all the toilets. We hadn't counted on the heat, and soon ran out of water. After about 50 minutes you could feel the general air of agitation rising, but eventually we crawled out into a shunting yard and after a few more stops or no apparent reason we finally were shunted onto the ferry. There was a general stampede for the loos - again, half the ladies' were locked, then another stampede for the bar, where only one person was serving.

With our supplies replenished, we could enjoy the approach to Sicily. Here is our first sighting of Messina.

The train was about an hour late getting to Catania, and it was a hot and wearing journey for the last couple of hours., the worst travel conditions we have experienced so far.

Catania really feels like somewhere else, a bit rougher round the edges than most of the Italian cities we've visited so far. The entry to the town  from the railway station is fairly desolate, with graffitied run down apartments and some pretty marginal lives in evidence.  I think we needed a taxi at this point rather than our usual determination to arrive on foot.

We found our hotel, in a nice location across from a park, and settled in to recover. We had a good dinner in a local Trattoria, salad, pasta, wine, bread. When we asked for the bill, the young guy running the place said 'you pay 20'.  So we paid 20, easily the cheapest and by no means the worst dinner so far.

Not sure what we will do tomorrow. We are feeling a bit weary after today so maybe a low key day, though we are mindful that our time is running out here and that every day is precious.