The mountains are beginning to get their autumn colours and the higher you go the more colour. The town of Chuzenji Onsen is a popular resort and holiday destination, with lots of daggy attractions. I tried to get Anne to go out on the lake in one of the swan paddle boats but she declined.
So instead I wistfully watched them gliding like mini mutant viking boats across the lake while we enjoyed our morning coffee and cake set, on a real terrace this time.
There is a lovely path that runs for a few kilometres beside the lake, up to what is left of a boat house and fishing lodge which was a resort for wealthy 19th century chaps. The combination of cool air, bright sunshine, sparkling water and autumn coloured trees made it one of the bet walks ever. The few people we met looked really happy.
On the way back we visited the Futarasan Shrine, a lovely peaceful place, then had a very Japanese lunch in a restaurant overlooking the lake. Continuing on to the bus stop we passed what must be a special rock, as it has its own fenced off plot.
There was a lengthy queue when we got to the bus station, but two buses came in quick succession, and we got good seats on the second. After a spectacular descent around 48 switchback corners, we were deposited back in Nikko. A quiet evening and another pleasant dinner, and another very satisfactory day. We will be sorry to leave Nikko tomorrow, but we know that there are many wonderful places ahead.
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