Tuesday, October 20, 2015

Kyoto

Today we planned to explore a bit to the North, starting at Kinkaku-ji, then catch a train to Arashiyama to catch the Sugano "Romantic Train". We've heard that Kinkaku-ji can be very crowded so we were up and out the door by 8, hoping to get there early. Anne had researched the buses, and we needed to catch a 205 from Kyoto station. We got the subway in to Kyoto no worries, but managed not to see the large sign facing the station which tells you which bus leaves from which platform. Each bus platform has its own sign, and I saw 205 so we hoped on. It was the right bus, but going in the wrong direction, and some 10 minutes later we arrived ... almost back at the door of our hotel. Undaunted, we caught the 205 bus heading in the right direction. Kyoto buses aren't the most comfortable conveyances - short on leg room, hot, diesel smelling, and often crowded, but the trip was made worthwhile by the presence of a couple of groups of what looked like older primary school age kids, in groups of four, heading off for the day to visit some of Kyoto's cultural heritage. (I can't imagine any Australian primary school sending groups of four students out for the day on our public transport to visit cultural sites.) We made friends with one group, we smiled, they smiled, they waved, we waved, good feelings all round. We bumped into them a few more times when we got at last to Kinkaku-ji. Here are the two girls with Anne - lovely beings.


And the Golden Pavilion in the back ground. I was glad to see it at last, even if it is a reconstruction. The gardens are immaculate thanks to the work of the tireless ninja lady gardeners who rake up every leaf. 

We caught another bus onto Ryoan-ji temple, famous for its Zen rock garden. We spent a while contemplating the 15 rocks arranged in a rectangle of racked white gravel, created first around 1500 by a highly respected Zen monk Tokuho Zenketsu. Enlightenment not forthcoming, we strolled around the shadey peaceful gardens for a while, before heading down the hill to catch a wonderful little train on the Kitano line. We had to change trains, to an even more attractive train. On the platform waiting for the interchange was a group of kindergarten age children all in blue shorts or dresses, white socks, and straw hats. They were like a flock of ducklings, and when the train pulled in, the line split up, and the stragglers had to be shooed in.

After a rather squeezey trip, being solemnly scrutinized by 30 pre-schoolers, we arrived at Arashiyama, which is a pretty spot. We were much taken by the sight of a gaggle of young ladies absolutely resplendent in their kimonos, lining up at one of the take-away restaurants in the main street.

 
We didn't have a lot of time so we chose to walk through the bamboo grove, which is promoted as one of the town's attractions. After the bamboo groves on the walk to Tsumago, these seemed a bit tatty, and the narrow paths overcrowded with people on hire bikes taking selfies. A nice walk further up the hill, past lovely tea houses and shrines, but we had to get back to the station in time for our Saguno Romantic Train. Which proved to be a dud for us. The landscape the train passes through is spectacular - steep gorges and a beautiful river, with small boats making what looked like an impossible journey through shallow rapids - but the train itself was packed and found ourselves wishing we'd stayed to explore more of Arashiyama. At the end of the "Romantic Train" ride we found ourselves in a fairly desolate landscape of rice paddies and a fair walk to the JR train to get back to Kyoto. But we did get back in time for a late and delicious lunch in an Oniomiaki restaurant before stumbling home again.The hotel cunningly offers free drinks after 5, which is a great marketing strategy as after a long day and a drink the temptation to eat in the hotel is strong - too strong for us tonight, so that's what we did.
 
All in all not a bad day, but we are finding Kyoto harder work than other places on the trip so far. Tomorrow we will explore the East side, along from Kiyomizu-dera.
 
 
 
 

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