Marseilles Thursday 8 May, Day 15

Today we followed the advice of a nice man who helped us work the vending machine in the archaeological museum in Arles. He waxed lyrical about Aix-en-Province when he heard we were going to Marseilles, so we followed his recommendation and caught the bus from the central rail station. Thirty minutes later we were in the charming town of Aix, an altogether more laid back sort of place compared to the crush here in Marseilles.

We pottered around, admiring the market and the fountains and the little squares. Anne's knee is making ominous grating sensations so to give it a rest we caught the petit train, an articulated touristy thing that winds its way down the tiny back streets.   Easy to imagine spending a peaceful week or two on Aix, and it will be on the list if ever we come back to France. After a pleasant slow lunch at a nice little café in a plane tree lined street, we caught the bus back to Marseilles, then the metro and another bus up to Notre Dame de la Garde.   An exciting ride as the full size bus climbed its way up tiny steep streets.  There are terrific views from the terraces around the church. The Church itself is not that big, and as it is a popular tourist spot, it was packed. The interior seems in the Byzantine tradition with lots of gold and arches made of alternate coloured stone,

After the visit, we came out to find the bus we hoped to catch down the mountain leaking fluid onto the car park while the driver stood smoking a cigarette next to it looking harried. I do hope the buses run on diesel. Eventually the next bus appeared, and twice as many people squashed onto it, for a sticky tide back down to the old port. Anne was ready for rest by now, and I visited the Museum of the History of Marseilles. By the time I'd found it, and then, having found it, found the entrance, there was only an hour till closing time, so it was a quick swing through what I thought was the best museum on Marseilles so far.

Tomorrow we have to be at the central train station by 7.30 to catch our train to Nice, so easy on the vin rouge and early to bed tonight.