The building has had a chequered history. During the Western Schism, it was besieged for 5 years in an attempt to persuade Benedict xii to resign. It has been used as barracks, prison and stables, it has been burned, its walls have been painted over, and most of its statues beheaded. But the basic structure is still largely intact. Not the most cheerful place in Avignon however.
To blow away the sense of oppression that hit us somewhere in the palace, we headed up onto the park on Roche des Doms, the rocky outcrop that was probably the site the first settlements in Avignon. Lovely gardens with beautiful roses and great views over the city and the river. We had lunch contemplating the lake and the ducks then headed down to the Musee du Petit Palais nearby. This museum has a collection of over three hundred paintings from the middle ages to the Renaissance, arranged chronologically. I broke my all time record for the number of Madonna-and-Baby-Jesus paintings seen in a single session. Fascinating to see how different themes, poses and ideas evolve over the centuries.
We liked the bored looking angel at the bottom right of this painting.
By the end of the visit, we were seriously in need of a cup of tea, and luckily there is a wonderful Salon de The in the courtyard garden, where we sat with a silver teapot and two tartes du jour under a mighty plane tree.
Anne retired for a rest and I visited the Pont Saint-Benezet, the famous Pont d'Avingon of the song, or what is left of it after war and floods have swept away most of its 22 arches, leaving only 4 still standing. Amazing that a bridge which has not been used since the 17th century is probably the main thing most people know Avignon for.
A chilly windy night, definitely not an outdoor café night. We visited a nearby Italian restaurant for a pizza, then a bit of a stroll down some more little back streets, then back to our room to regroup for tomorrow.
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