I headed out early this morning and managed to take a couple of wrong turns heading out of Pamplona. A very pretty walk today over the Alto de Perdon. Probably should now be called Alt de Selfie or perhaps the pilgrims just wanted to remember and record their forgiven status. Puenta de la Riena is a bit low key after frenetic Pamplona. Distinctly feels like the weather is changing
Rain gear might get a workout soon.
A grand day walking today, lovely weather and beautiful rural spring Spain, blossoms and irises and fields of canola so bright it almost hurts to look at them. The way winds through little stone villages till it hits the outskirts of Pamplona then up past the massive fortifications into the old town.
Staying in the main albergue which is pretty full, pretty basic and very cheap. It has the world's slowest washing machines and only four machines for 180 pilgrims wanting to wash their sweaty clothes. A bit of laundry rage going down there today. Some very tired and stiff people creaking around the place tonight, and some truly horrific blisters.
Pamplona seems like a lively place. Thursday nights the bars here offer pinchos and a drink for 2 Euros a serve. The more you eat the more you drink. Seems to work - the place is jumping.
I think tomorrow though I will try for Puente LA Riena.
The hospitalieros at Roncesvalles turn on the lights and crank up the grepgaian chant CD at about 5.45 - sleeping in not an option. Hit the trail about 7.00- it is still quite dark till then and no point getting lost. Walked to the next village for a nice breakfast. The path drops then climbs up to Pont due Error then falls steeply again down to Zubiri. I was planning on continuing on to Larrasoana but I started feeling not too well on the descent - a dodgey fuente I suspect. Got here round 3.30. The albergue is lovely and quiet and the town is nice. At dinner in the local bar I met an eighty year old French lady pilgrim. She had walked the 23 kilometres from Roncesvalles today. She looked a bit tired but so does everyone else, me included. I think the person who opened a foot care and blister clinic here would make a fortune.
Hard to believe it is only two days in. Looking at the map is a bit daunting - the two hard days slog represents an almost imperceptible fraction of the journey.
A big climb today over the Pyrenees to 1428 metres according to my GPS. Beautiful weather and breath taking country. I set off at 7.30 and arrived at Roncesvalles at about 3. Met some truly lovely people on the way. The Camino is like a suspension of the normal rules of every day. People have agreed to be open and nice to one another and it really is a nice place to be. Had a few beers to celebrate getting here then headed over to dinner then to the pilgrim blessing in the church here. Well I certainly do feel blessed in so many ways.
Woke up to a grey morning in Bayonne and after cracking the mysteries of the vending machine and getting my ticket I spent a couple of hours exploring the town before joining the gaggle of excited perogrinos on the bus. A number of them hit the trail straight away, probably heading for orrison about 8 k up the mountain. They will have an easier day tomorrow but I am not sorry to have had the chance to explore St Jpdp and its surrounds. The weather is glorious and is looking clear for the next few days. The albergue has a lovely garden in which I am catching the last of the afternoon sun, bells ching, birds chirping, delicious smelling dinner being prepared by the hospitaliero Jakline. I feel very grateful for my good fortune to be here doing this.
Tomorrow the big climb up to Roncesvalles.
I will be getting on a plane next week and truly as Anne said to me, my days are numbered. Time to stop faffing around and decide what I am taking and finish off outstanding tasks.
My walking preparation has been a bit erratic so I set out today to walk to Werribee. The weather was atrocious and after about 10 k water was running down the back of my pants which were thoroughly soaked, and into my boots. Note to self: pack and use waterproof pants and gaiters. I started to get cold feet, literally, about continuing, so I headed over to Laverton and caught train back. So I seem to be packing a bit more stuff - probably over 8 k now but I think worth it to stay warm and dry. After our Tassie trip I will definitely take a light down jacket as I realise that anywhere over 1000 metres can get fairly chilly whatever the season.
Anyway, after getting some dry clothes and my other boots I headed out again into the blast, wind gale force by now and the windage on the pack quite noticeable, and slogged out the remaining clicks to get 20 k. Now if I do that tomorrow and the next day and a couple more times before I go I should be fairly ready.
