Friday, February 20, 2015

Wilson's Prom Southern Circuit.

One of the sensible bits of advice from the Camino forum is to get in as much practice as possible in conditions that match as closely as possible the Camino itself. So try to walk the sort of distances, carrying the sort of loads, and do it on successive days.
Following this wise direction, earlier this week I headed off down to Wilson's Prom to do the Southern Circuit, Sealers Cove, Waterloo Bay, the Light station, Roaring Meg, then back up to Telegraph Saddle. My daughter Jess bravely and kindly volunteered to come along.
The terrain was in lots of places as steep or steeper,and definitely rougher, than anything I can remember from last Camino.
Carrying tent, 4 days food, sleeping mat and water filter pushed my pack weight way over the magic 7 kilos, and it sure felt like it going up those hills - a good encouragement to be ruthless in my packing.
The walk itself was beautiful, awe inspiring, stunning. The Prom is an extraordinary and very special place, and I feel grateful to have the opportunity to experience such a wild natural place. It really is good for the soul. 
Day 1 we drove down, picked up our hikers permits and got on the trail by about 12.30. A grey afternoon so relatively cool. We kept bumping into three other hikers, whom we would see again over the coming days, three young vegans carrying enormous packs. We got to Sealers Cove about 3.30 and camped in a wonderful hidden spot which Jess found, completely surrounded and hidden in thick braken.
Day2 to Little Waterloo Bay, a hard day slogging over Mt Kesop. Campground there littered with amazing crap that people had left behind - a chunky gas stove like you buy in Coles, a foam esky, burned cooking pot, scattered foil, and of course the ubiquitous tissues. A rather disconsolate school group camped nearby - they were obviously there not by choice and didn't seem to be having a great time. 
Day 3 started grey and drizzley, and the mountain at the end of Waterloo bay that we had to climb was shrouded in cloud. Reading the overnight hikers leaflet the night before we discovered that the circuit via the lighthouse is best undertaken anti clockwise, as the gradients are better that way. We agred d this might be true as we struggled our clockwise way up and over the saddle, through dense fog which denied us the reward of the allegedly fine views along the way. Eventually we hit the junction, dropped our packs and headed down to visit the light station. A couple of decent gradients there - good training for the Pyrenees no doubt.
Both rangers came over for a chat, and we enjoyed the great novelties of a flushing look and a tap with water you can drink without treating. A beautiful place - we both decided next time we will stay there. The cloud started to clear but even as we headed off the light station still had its own special cloud.
Jess found us another great camp site at Roaring Meg, and we sat on a massive lichen covered boulder next to it, looking out over the little gully in the dappled sunlight, waggling our unbooted toes in the breeze.Fantastic. 
Last day was foggy with lots of drops falling from the tall trees whenever the breeze shook them. A lovely walk nonetheless with a few wallabies watching us cautiously along the way. We shared the last of our supplies at halfway hut and one last rest stop on the road, then stumped up the climb to Telegraph Saddle to collect the car. A bit of a shock to be back in the bustle and bright lights of Tidal River. All in all a great walk and a good training learning exercise.

Sunday, February 1, 2015

Getting ready for the Camino

Getting ready for the Camino


I've booked flights leaving mid April returning early June, hoping to walk the Camino from St Jean Pied de Port, then on to Finisterre. Quite daunting prospect but millions of people have done it and so can I. A lot to get organized - there seems to no end of gear to help you achieve the bearable lightness of backpack, the magic 10%  of body weight, that the Camino forum sages propound.  I lashed out and bought a new pack, 18 L larger but 140 grams lighter than my old 32 L pack. I just have to resist the temptation to fill it. I am building up my daily walking distance and trying to get some different terrains. Here is Cumberland Falls, a lovely walk off the Great Ocean Road from last week.